Between 1969 and 1970, I visited Paris
three times and spent a total of about eight weeks there.
The first time I visited Paris was in
April 1969. I was still in the USAF and had planned an ambitious trip
to hitchhike through several countries, but which I cut short after
sleeping on a frozen hillside between Lyon and Valence, another story
for another time perhaps. Hitchhiking was easier and safer then. It
was also a great way to travel and I often learned much about the
countries I visited when the drivers pointed out sights and talked
about the history and culture.
I recall that on my first trip to
Paris, I managed to arrive in Paris the same day with four different
rides. The best was a ride from outside of Mainz all the way to
Fontainbleu, where the driver dropped me off at a Metro station. From
there, I took the Metro into Paris and then to the Latin Quarter. A
woman, one of several American expats I met on my trips to Paris, was
heading to the same stop and helped me find the hotel that a friend
had recommended. Le Grand Hotel du Midi on Rue du Sommerard was my
“home” each time I was in Paris. Another regular hangout was Le
Petit Bar on Rue St. Jacques, a haven for expats and Bohemians of all
nationalities. That first trip was uneventful. I spent most of my
time walking around the Latin Quarter and along the Seine, doing what
tourists do, seeing the sights, visiting museums, and the like. One
thing I noticed was the omnipresence of French police at certain
intersections in the Latin Quarter. Paris was still reeling from the
strikes and riots the previous year in May 1968, and the police did
not tolerate students or others congregating as a group and would
quickly break up any group they saw, telling them to move on.
My next trip to Paris was after
Christmas 1969 with a German girlfriend, with whom I drove in her
tiny Fiat from Wiesbaden to Paris. Once we checked into the hotel and
got settled, we walked down Rue St. Jacques to Le Petit Bar and soon
became part of an international group of friends, with whom we went
out to dinner each night at a different restaurant or bistro and hung
out with most afternoons at Le Petit Bar. Among the merry group, was
a couple from Montreal, a Bolivian, A Finnish expat, a Japanese
computer programmer who was in Paris attempting to transform himself
into an artist, and a couple of American expats who had been living
in Paris for a while.
As the name indicates, Le Petit Bar was
small. During the day, it was a good place for a late breakfast or
lunch, but in the evening it was standing room only. An old waiter by
the name of Ramano worked there during the day. According to the
local legend, he had once been the owner and then sold the bar to
retire, but later returned to work there. He must have been at least
70. I will never forget his voice and the incredibly nasal twang when
he shouted food and drink orders to the bar. Another waiter I
remember was a guy from Holland who worked there part-time. I forget
his name but someone had told me that he was a med student. He often
visited the bar on his night off, hollering “Hoog verdoemen!”
in Dutch (roughly translated, “Goddamnit!”) as he entered with his
entourage. The thing I remember most was that he was usually dressed
in a suit and tie, and looked very much like a young physician. He
was also often already “three sheets to the wind.” I wonder if he
ever finished med school and became a doctor?
Another hangout was Le Piano Vache on
Rue La Place near the Pantheon. We saw Jean Paul Satre there one
night. I would have never noticed him at the bar if someone hadn't
pointed him out. It was also near Rue Mouffetard, which is noted for
its many restaurants. In 1969-1970, you could still find a few good
restaurants there that were affordable.
The police presence was still evident,
but oddly the police never bothered us when our group of six or eight
walked from Le Petit Bar to wherever we planned to dine that evening.
Perhaps it was because we weren't French and weren't speaking French?
Although we spent most of our time in the Latin Quarter, we sometimes
ventured to the St. Germain des Prés
and other neighborhoods. One place was a drugstore at street level
with a jazz club in the basement. It may have been the original Le
Drugstore, but the photo I saw online doesn't match what I remember,
which I recall was on a narrow back street or alley. Anyway, from
what I hear, it's no longer there.
One eatery I'll never forget was a
bistro we called “Madam Georgette's.” I'm not sure if that was
the actual the actual name of the place, but the waitress was called
Madame Georgette. She was a brassy blonde who was probably in her
late 40s and was most noted for her colorful nicknames for every dish
on the menu. If you ordered a well-done steak, she'd holler to the
kitchen something along the lines of “One burned shoe!” in
French. There was also a banana dish, which she called “a young
girl's dream.”
My last trip—the last hurrah—was
just three months later in April-May 1970. This time, I splurged and
flew with Air France from Frankfurt to Orly. As usual, I checked into
the Hotel du Midi and then headed straight for Le Petit Bar. By now,
I was more or less “a regular” and knew the waiters and other
staff, as well as some of the regulars.
During this trip, I also became a
regular at Shakespeare and Company, which was on Rue la Bucherie and
across the street from Le Petit Bar. George Whitman was the omnipresent
owner for some 60 years,. He not only ran the shop, he also
offered lodging and humble meals to struggling writers and travelers
who needed a place to stay in exchange for a couple of hours of work
in the shop. George usually wore a corduroy suit and, with his goatee,
he reminded me of Ezra Pound. He was a man with many stories about
books, famous guests, and himself. Among his tales, I remembering him
saying that he was the “illegitimate grandson of Walt Whitman.”
He died in 2011, just two days after his 98th birthday.
His daughter Sylvia now runs the shop.
The bookstore was and remains a popular
destination for expats and tourists—especially Americans. It is a
singular used bookshop in Paris where most of the books are in
English and where you can browse, read, and even find a treasure or
two among the floor-to-ceiling stacks—not to mention bump into and
talk to famous visitors you might not even recognize. I once met one
of Hemingway's granddaughter's there. It neither Mariel nor Margaux,
so I think it may have been Joan, aka “Muffet,” but were any of
them famous in 1970?
A more famous person I met at
Shakespeare and Company was the Tamil poet Tambimuttu (aka Tambi) who
lived in London and was better known there as a critic, editor, and
publisher. George had agreed to let Tambi stay at the bookshop during
a visit to Paris. Tambi spent much of his time at the shop talking to
visitors and old friends at the back of the shop, just a few yards
from where George sat. I sometimes dropped in and chatted with him
as well. At the time, I had submitted some poems to Paris
Magazine, which George published sporadically. George showed the
poems to Tambi and they accepted two for publication. Tambi claimed
that one poem was the first and only true psychedelic poem he had
seen at the time. Of course, I was ecstatic, but a couple of days
later I ran into an expat writer who advised, “If you have a chance
to publish the poems elsewhere, do so, because it could be a very
long time before you'll see them in print—if ever.” Yes, I
retracted them. They were published later in a college literary
magazine.
While
Tambi stayed
at Shakespeare and Company, a tall, blond British woman and a
gentleman friend arrived in Paris and visited Tambi at the bookshop.
Although stately and still striking, age was not kind to the woman.
Her blossom had faded. I soon discovered that Tambi had a
reputation as a ladies' man. During a mid-afternoon breakfast at a
café
on Blvd. St. Germain, he confided to me that he had not only slept
with the woman when she was much younger, but he had also slept with
her adult daughter years later.
One
evening when I was at the bookshop, Tambi sat
in his corner in the back talking to an attractive young woman in her
early 20s. Meanwhile, George had gone to another part of the shop.
Suddenly, the lights went out and initially I didn't hear or see
anything. Apparently, there was
a fuse box and switches for the shops lights close to where Tambi
sat. But then I heard what
sounded like a struggle and the woman began shouting. By then, my
eyes had adjusted to the gloom enough to see movement in the back and
heard voices, but didn't understand what was said. Suddenly, the
lights were on again. The incident
probably took less than a minute or so. The
woman looked both angry and embarrassed, George looked as
if he was trying to control
whatever he felt, and Tambi looked
nonchalant, as if nothing had
happened at all. As
I recall, Tambi returned to London very
soon after the incident.
My last
hurrah in Paris lasted about a
month and the time just flew by. One thing I never did during my
trips to France and Paris
was date
a French woman.
Aside from women who worked in
shops and cafés,
I didn't meet many French women to begin with. In addition to
a few American expats and
tourists, most
of the women I met were from Germany, Holland, and Scandinavia. So
it went.
Four
months later, I was a civilian again and back in the states and about
to resume college, thanks to the GI Bill. How
time flies.